Mylar Woven Tube Body

  • Prepare the hook shank by winding turns of foundation thread to the tail position. (S)
  • Form a slim yellow or white yarn or floss underbody (the color depending on whether gold or silver Mylar is to be used). (S)
  • With straight scissors, cut a piece of tubing a little longer than the body length, to allow for fraying.
  • Holding the tube in your left hand, extract the cotton core with tweezers.
  • Push the tube over the eye of the hook and down the shank. As you push the tube, the end will fray; continue pushing the tube until the end of the intact plaiting reaches the secured tying thread. The frayed ends will probably extend beyond the bend of the hook.
  • Do not trim off the frayed ends yet.
Fly Tying Woven
  • Take the tying thread up between the near-side frayed ends, in preparation for binding-down turns over the tubing.
  • Holding the frayed ends and hook bend in your left hand, wind careful securing turns over the part of the tube where the plaiting has just started to fray. (S)
  • Trim off the frayed ends, close to the securing turns.
  • Cover the cut surplus ends with a wrap knot, but take five or six wrap-knot turns instead of the usual three or four.
  • Cut the surplus tying thread, and re-attach it at the eye end, disturbing the frayed ends at the eye as little as possible. (S)
  • Pull the woven tube back toward the bend as shown. This action will further fray the eye end of the tube, but it is not usually as bad as it looks!
  • Keeping the tubing pulled back, wind the tying thread down to the hackle position. (S)
  • Smooth the tubing forward again, then tie its front end off in the same way as the tail end. (S)
  • Cut the frayed ends close to the securing turns of thread.
  • Lacquer the wrap knot at the tail end of the tubing and wait for it to dry before adding a hackle and/or wing.

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