you. The roll cast is also effective when you're casting a short distance to the same area; say, to a small section of riffles in a trout stream.
The roll cast begins with line already out in front of you. Make a normal overhead cast, or if obstructions prohibit that, pull line off the reel and jiggle the rod tip. Have no more than 20 feet of line out when first practicing. Hold the line in your off (non-casting) hand, or clamp the line to the grip with your casting-hand forefinger. Now, bring the rod back behind you, to about the 2 o'clock position. Don't lift your rod hand higher than your head. Angle the rod a bit away from your body so that the line hanging from the rod tip isn't directly behind you. Without pausing, drive the rod forward and down, stopping it abruptly at about 10 o'clock (imagine you're hitting a bug on a kitchen counter with the bottom of your fist). The line should roll up from the surface in an oval and curl forward, lifting your leader and fly out of the water and dropping it as the fly line tightens.
Executing a roll cast.
The horizontal cast is also used when obstructions prohibit normal overhead casting. This cast becomes particularly handy when you're fishing streams that have overhanging limbs and branches from trees growing along both shorelines, or when you want to cast a fly beneath a tree hanging over a lake or pondareas that fish frequent. To make a horizontal cast, simply hold the rod parallel to the water's surface and follow the same motions that you would for a typical overhead cast. However, you must impart much more energy into both your backward and forward casts to keep the line and leader from hitting or skipping the water. Most anglers make the mistake of not waiting for the line and leader to straighten out on backward and forward casts; snapping the leader like a
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